Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
